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JOR-EL ESPINA is paying tribute to Patis Tesoro, but also lucky enough to collaborate with a designer who is sometimes called the Grand Dame of Philippine Fashion.
At a fashion show on July 15 at the Makati Shangri-La, it was hard to draw the line between where the senior designer ends and the junior begins in this collection called “Heirloom.”
There was a pink embroidered top with lace trimming on a little cap-sleeved baro (a traditional blouse), with an inner garment of fuchsia, and a floral skirt. Next came a striped blouse made of piña (pineapple fiber fabric), with a Mindanao-inspired malong (tube skirt), and a refreshing green-striped baro with lace trimming on the sleeves, paired with a gathered aquamarine skirt.
A long-sleeved baro had a splash of lilac chiffon on the train, while a fully embroidered kimono jacket with a pattern of green leaves and hot pink flowers was paired with gold-embroidered pants. Next came a polite coatdress with terno sleeves (butterfly sleeves), fully embroidered with masses of wildflowers.
There was a darling kimona (a traditional blouse) over pistachio-green pants with a piña overlay, and a boxy floral balintawak (a traditional short butterfly-sleeved dress).
There was something a bit more modern in a nice long shift dress with a ruffled hem in a chintzy print, and then came a pleated flower-painted dress in the style of a 1920s robe de style, drop-waisted and paired with a full sheer coat in red, appliquéd all over.
The finale dress was an ensemble with a terno (formal butterfly-sleeved dress) with calado (openwork embroidery) details, and a full skirt, with several scraps of different colors forming the tapis (overskirt).
That is only a sneak peek, for the collaboration resulted in a 30-piece collection.
As to why they collaborated — it’s a celebration of Mr. Espina’s 20th year in fashion, as well as the result of a meeting over lunch with Ms. Tesoro in Laguna with the ArteFino ladies. But more importantly, “I love her,” he said in an interview. “It was while we were enjoying her space and company that we began to explore the idea of a special collection for ArteFino. It was really because of the ladies and their generous endorsement that this dream project was brought to life,” he said in a statement.
Speaking about which parts are hers and his, he said, “I use her techniques. I’ve been visiting her several times to do a collection. We’ve been trying to inject her techniques, a few of her silhouettes… her beading, her embroidery, her stitchwork.
“Her clothes are really kind of mysterious, and yet very fun. My collection is more formal. I just injected her techniques, her colors, to my silhouette at the same time,” he said.
According to him, 95% of the collection was made of piña (a textile she championed in the 1990s, following the decline in its production). He used a rare piña, in fact, that he had to commission in Aklan.
“Miss Patis is full of wisdom,” the young designer said of Ms. Tesoro, and what he learned from working with her. “Her blessing, guidance, feedback, and advice were integral to this collection. I was eager to learn, and Patis was generous with her knowledge. I wanted to make sure that every single garment reflected her essence.”
“I have to borrow her line: that a designer should make clothes that can be passed through generations.”
“Heirloom” will be seen and sold at the ArteFino bazaar, which will be held from July 31 to Aug. 3 at The Fifth at Rockwell, Makati. — Joseph L. Garcia
